What You’ll Need
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- DSLR Camera: A DSLR camera is what I used and recomend because it allows you to control exposure times, focus, and other essential settings. I used a Canon 450D/ Rebel XSI (a very old camera 2008, you can likely find similar or better for less than $100). Alternatively, you can use your smartphone, especially if it is a newer model. You will want to find a way to enable long exposures if using a smartphone.
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- Fast Lens: A lens with a low f-ratio (aperture) is crucial. This lets in more light, which is essential for capturing the Milky Way. I used a Samyang 14mm F 2.8 Lens
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- Tripod: Stability is key. Even a cheap tripod will work if you keep it close to the ground to minimize movement.
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- Intervalometer (Optional): If your camera doesn’t support continuous shooting without touching the camera, an intervalometer is a handy tool and they can be found on Amazon for $20 or less. It allows you to take multiple photos in sequence without physically touching the camera.
Finding the Right Time and Location
Before starting, find a location with minimal light pollution the darker the sky, the better your shots will be.
My timelapses on this website were all shot from a Bortle 4 Location.
The Milky Way is not always visible, May to August are good months to try in the Northern Hemisphere. Using a website that shows the night sky is a good place to check what time and composition you will want.
See #3 and #9 Here for more info on bortle and sky map.
Focus The Camera
Focusing on stars can be tricky, but it’s an important step. Here’s how to do it:
Find a bright star in the sky to focus on. If your camera has a zoom feature, use it to zoom in on the star. If having troubles turn up the ISO as high as you can.
Slowly adjust the focus ring manually until the star appears as small and sharp as possible.
It helps to go slightly out of focus and then back in focus a few times to ensure you’re getting the best result.
Set the Exposure & ISO
You need longer exposures than for regular photos. In my timelapses, I used a 15-second exposure for each shot.
If your exposure is too long, the stars will start to trail, appearing elongated. It’s a good idea to test and see how long of an exposure you can use before star trailing becomes noticeable.
A good setting for ISO can vary but I use 800 or 1600, but only because that is my camera’s limit. If your DSLR goes higher I suggest trying a higher ISO.
Start Capturing the Images
Now that your camera is focused and your exposure is set, it’s time to capture the images.
Ensure your camera is stable on the tripod.
It’s recomended to set your camera set to take raw images, they are higher image quality and more flexible later in processing.
Set your camera to take as many photos as possible without touching it. If your camera doesn’t have this option, an intervalometer can automate the process.
Add a few seconds between each shot to help with stability and reduce camera shake.
Here is what I used Canon Rebel XSI/450D, Samyang 14mm F2.8, Tripod, Intervelometer.
